New York Fashion Week: Thuy, Fall 2009

For the Thuy Fall 2009 show, Anthony Barrow for Avon created disheveled rocker updos.

“What we’re going for is to create a dry, airy texture and Thuy wanted the hair to go up…to be a little bit rockabilly. We combed through some Avon Advance Techniques Volumizing Mousse, on dry hair, and sprayed on Avon Advance Techniques Hair Spray. All of that is dried into the hair, using a hair dryer and paddle brush - which gives it a little bit of finish, but keeps it separated because we don’t want the texture to be too perfect.”

“The front half of the head is backcombed and the first few side sections are backcombed. Then the back is twisted asymmetrically across the back of the head. So it’s a bit like a French pleat, but it runs behind the ear. The front is dressed back up and twisted and the ends are left out, so there’s texture in the front. The reason for twisting the hair right to left is because the designer has created several looks with hats. So the hats go from left to right, so we’re balancing that out. What’s important is it’s not too pretty. It’s got a bit of gritiness to it. This is perfect hair, actually, because it’s a little bit damaged.”

When I asked about the inspiration, Anthony explained, “Thuy wanted something that was strong and ‘not too girly,’ in her words…and edgier and raw. But she wanted it to be clean and she wanted it to be flat. The emphasis needed to be on the front, with the texture. We went through many variations before we decided on this one.”

Romero Jennings (for MAC) created the futuristic makeup look. “Thuy was talking about optimism and the future and clean lines. So I felt that the makeup should be organic, like a lot of her shapes are. But because she’s doing some color, I decided to go black and white. I was able to use texture - so there’s shine and matte. There’s definitely a liner, and it’s done with Blacktrack Fluidline, mixed with some new products. We have a new Black Collection for fall that is amazing."

"On the lid, I mixed Frozen White Pigment with Gold Pigment and a little bit of Reflects Gold. On the cheek, we’re applying Mineralized Blush. But even though there’s a hint of color, you’re really not going to see it. On the runway, it’s going to look like black and white and the skin is just going to glow.”

“The lipstick is a mixture of Flesh Pot (from the limited-edition Heatherette Collection) and Myth. The look is kind of nude and fresh. On a darker girl, I’m going to use Chelsea (discontinued lipstick), which is nude and brownie. It’s pretty. It’s makeup that someone can actually do at home by themselves, with or without all of the extra things that I use. You can actually do this really great strong liner, highlight around it, do a neutral mouth and little bit of blush and you’ll get the same effect.”

When I asked Romero about emerging trends, Romero said, “For fall, I’m seeing that it’s dark. There’s a definite liner, but it’s not pointy. It’s not glam-y or vampy. It’s almost more futuristic and modern. That’s what I love about it. And the skin looks healthy.”